Todd Lynn Spring/Summer 2016 Menswear

You could argue that a lot has changed since Todd Lynn’s Autumn/Winter 2015 Men’s collection. Rooted in a brooding Gothic impression, the collection saw Lynn’s typically dark and quietly austere style on show. It was, then, somewhat of a surprise to see Spring/Summer 2016 as a complete contrast, with the collection as a whole seeming to embody light, hegemony, and perhaps hint at future trajectories in fashion and society. In Lynn’s own words: “White is the antithesis of what people expect…also, you can’t hide.”

Ambient piano chords and sparse drum beats set a calm tone to the small-capacity Soho art gallery in which this show took place. A classic strutting rock riff from the live band signalled the beginning of the show. The first four all-male looks were styled more formally with light-cream coloured blazers and shirts. The top-heavy balance was achieved through the long sleeves and accompanying shorts, exposing the legs. The fabrics were light and airy, entirely suitable for spring/summer. Looks 5-8 progressed the initial offering with 5 and 6 donning translucent trousers, enough so that you could see the pocket silhouettes, while looks 7 and 8 transferred seamlessly onto the female models. Jackets and shorts were fitted with black ribbons: “rather than do them up with a button, let’s tie them on”. Almost like the traditional kimono, perhaps it was also this feature that added to the faint exoticism of these looks.

Long, slender lines were another feature of this collection, accentuated by the tall, slim models and the elongated, open sleeve design. It was in looks 9-12 that this really became apparent, with looks 9 and 11 truly embodying this. The flowing cuffs added a fluid movement to the walks, while firm black lines either side marked the male outfits. Lynn went on to explain, “it’s not a big shirt, it’s oversized. How do you make it look right?” - a partnership with Christian Louboutin helped work this concept further, where the sleeves might displace the look, the boots really grounded every look, particularly where shorts were present.

Looks 13-18 welcomed the next phase of the collection, largely characterised by a chrome-silver pallette. Lynn used a thin silver mesh fabric to create the stunning blazers of looks 13 and 14, with wonderful skin tones perfusing through the microfibres. Looks 21 through to 26 provided elaborations on the opening looks, employing a multilayered square design and various manifestations of the tied black ribbon.

The looks came on in groups of four, to emphasise the cult theme, taken from the film ‘Village Of The Damned’, which inspired the collection with its uniform blonde wigs and almost androgynous feel, expressed through the equal use of male and female models. On a core level this collection was more about a progressive portrayal of gender and a celebration of communal interest, “it shouldn’t be about whether it’s men’s or women’s, it should be about buying what you love… I’m not trying to make girls look masculine or men look feminine; it’s more about finding what you like rather than being dictated by what you should wear.”

Review: Vincent Morris for #STYLEFAN

Have you been backstage?
Have a look at what we captured backstage at the Todd Lynn Spring/Summer 2016 show here.  

Todd Lynn Spring/Summer 2016 Menswear Looks:

Credits:
Review: Vincent Morris for #STYLEFAN
Photography: Christopher Dadey (Courtesy of Todd Lynn)


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LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN