Nasir Mazhar Spring/Summer 2016 Menswear

As Logan Sama’s distinctly grime soundtrack jolted on, it was clear that East London-born Nasir Mazhar’s longstanding influence by gritty London urban culture was not going anywhere. The sound of gunshots peeled and the first model strode out in black face mask, long heavy shorts and open camo jacket, cementing the overtones of urban warfare that would drive much of the rest of the collection.

This season, Mazhar drastically stripped back his collection. Coloured metallic jacquard and larger-than-life logos that often splashed across his garments were replaced by a predominantly black palette, broken only by flashes of metallic silver later. The ‘Nasir Mazhar’ name print was now across the bands of bikini tops, and peeped over low slung  cargo trousers across the waistband of contrasting white trousers, whilst his trademark graphic logo appeared less dominantly on black socks, toning down the cultish iconography that previously took centre stage in Mazhar’s collections. With this monochrome replacement, Mazhar’s usual self-described ‘tough’ look was given a more sinister edge.

While the palette was more understated, the cuts certainly weren’t. A highlight was the women’s legwear: tiny shorts-come suspenders flowered into a chain of inverted cotton triangles, tied at the back to evoke a bandana-like shape, giving his female looks a rogue sensibility. Long shorts with oval slits exposed vast portions of thigh- a nod to 90s UK club culture that could also be found in the cropped tops and developed in Mazhar’s trademark bully cap. Meanwhile, metallic jacquard skirts were suspended by large delicate frills- a softer appeal that contrasted with the bondage undertones carried by the strappy back pack frames, masks and suspenders which all mixed toughness, and urban violence with hints of sexual aggression.

This collection exposed a darker side to Mazhar, replacing classic joggers with cargo trousers, which together with full body black camouflage prints, carried on the theme of urban combat. Yet, many of Mazhar’s trademarks were still rampant: a preoccupation with sports and streetwear in his basketball style shorts, and iconic bully caps, standing testament to Mazhar’s incredible ability to create a cult image that is still irrevocably his own even when projected more subtly.

Review: Nina Markovic-Obiago

Nasir Mazhar Spring/Summer 2016 Menswear Looks:

Credits:
Review: Nina Markovic-Obiago
Runway Photography: Christopher Dadey (Courtesy of Ella Dror PR)


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London Collections: Men