Christopher Raeburn Spring/Summer 2016 Menswear

Christopher Raeburn continued the elemental theme that so vibrantly brought together his Men’s ‘RAFT’ collection last season. Weathering the open ocean, Raeburn’s Spring/Summer 2016 collection saw us arriving on land, entering deep into Borneo. Inspired by maverick anthropologist Tom Harrison, the theme of jungle survival appears throughout the collection in a number of ways. Here, Raeburn toned down the palette, replete with earthy hues of dark green, brown and blue.

One of the most impressive aspects to the show was actually the soundtrack, created by Dominic Harwood. Rainforest soundscapes set the scene as the first looks entered the runway. Looks 1-4 were driven by textured layering, which were most evident in the cross-hatch design.  The jumper of look 2 ran consistent with last year’s season which was decorated with animal silhouettes, in this case swinging orangutans. Look 3 donned a coat derived of ex-military camo wear - clearly geared toward functionality and much similar to the more street-ready looks of 5-7.

Look 6’s take on an all-black resistant feel was one of the most successful of the collection. A deft management of textures saw the wonderfully designed jacket as a centrepiece, while the contrasting chest pocket really lifted the look. Look 13 was one of the strongest of the collection; it seemed to epitomise a collection that was more concerned with a greater accessible appeal, while incorporating Raeburn’s typically novel conceptual elements. Wide, baggy trousers were designed for wet outdoor wear, while the oriental reed woven backpack added an exotic element to a fairly neutral look. The standout accessory was undoubtedly the orangutan rucksack, its arms and legs bouncing to the swing of the walker. Featured in a number of colours, the a percentage of each bag sold will be donated to the Orangutan Foundation. Another favourite of the collection was look 27, though perhaps one of the less consistent pieces, simply for its flatter look and singular colour scheme of deep ocean blue.

Again, like last season, Raeburn’s sustainable ‘Remade’ ethos came into play, with many of the materials being reappropriated from reclaimed military surplus. The military lens through which the collection breathes complements the themes of nature and survival. Another elaboration on this theme included map prints such as the one found in look 30. Overall a very successful collection that builds on the strengths of last season.

Review: Vincent Morris for #STYLEFAN

Christopher Raeburn Spring/Summer 2016 Menswear Looks:

Credits
Review: Vincent Morris for #STYLEFAN
Runway Videography: Courtesy of the British Fashion Council
Runway Photography: Courtesy of Exposure PR