Luxury prêt-à-couture label Busardi returned to London Fashion Week with its SS15 collection 'Air', taking London by storm and solidifying its name as a truly international label. This season the collection took inspiration from the varying landscapes of South America, creating a narrative as sumptuous as the evening wear the brand is renowned for.
Argentinian deserts spoke in the dusky pinks and glowing creams that pervaded the show. Linear lace embroidery danced playfully across pale laurel green and blue dresses, creating an aquatic image that owes its inspiration - as co-founder Tuck Muntarbhorn explains backstage- to the 'glacier filled fields of Patagonia'. Through the largely soft palette leaped flashes of brilliant turquoise and purples, providing startling contrast that could also be seen in the procession of gauzy skirts amongst tailored jackets.
The collections conceptual element extended to the models themselves who embodied 'eagles', representing the new Busardi woman: strong and magnificent whilst retaining a regal elegance. Their strength was carried by large, crystal-encrusted silver bracelets and earpieces that snaked up the entire ear, their heaviness juxtaposing the trademark fine lace appliqué and traditional floral prints that featured throughout. Ostrich feathers nodded to the aviary themes of the show, softening the hems of structured jackets with plunging necklines, adorning waistlines and the edges of cascading capes. Floor length skirts and translucent floating hemlines billowed behind the models like the tails of exotic birds as they soared down the runway. Heavier, silk jacquard and taffeta capes and dresses were in-keeping with the labels red carpet tradition, creating a sense of decadence captured by profusions of silk flowers which spilled down long evening gowns. These were balanced by seductive layering of chiffon and tulle skirts, mingling luxurious opulence with a light elegance that characterised the collection.
Layering featured heavily throughout and the consequent merging of transparency and reflective silks made the the dresses quite literally dazzling as they interacted with the light. The ambient beat of the music slowed and a moment of tranquillity seemed to descend as the models floated across the runway and the show seemed to revel in its own etherealness. The show brought a new element to evening wear: 'Air' and transformed the life-giving substance to a breathtaking moment in art.
Busardi Spring/Summer 2015 Looks:
Busardi Spring/Summer 2015 Backstage:
Runway Photography: Yannis Vlamos (Courtesy of Forward PR)
Backstage Photography: Shu-Wei Huang (Courtesy of Busardi)
Backstage Video: Alexander Phelps (Courtesy of Busardi)