What makes a visionary team? A solid duo? A pair who understands and complements each other, both parties bringing the other’s strengths to a whole new level, reached by honest, invigorating exchange. Husband and wife, Nana Aganovich and Brooke Taylor, are a living example of such entente. Their Spring Summer 2015 collection, presented in Paris, was the work of a talented pair, which knows and forges a unique personal taste.
This season, Aganovich stretched its tailoring maîtrise to reach new stars, and with it experimented fabric techniques testifying for their couture know-how. Fascinated by icons, their representation, semiotics and colours, the designers brought them to life, both giving justice to their classic perfection, as well as a new-age to the stillness of their drapes. In a study of the historical portrayal of textiles in stone, Aganovich Spring Summer 2015 established a brilliant relationship between fluidity and solidness.
The entirety of the collection faltered in between origami-like structured precision and the ample curves of loose cuts. The collection gave much attention to collars, the most intricate with asymmetric points reaching up to the models ears, and simpler designs caressing the throat in a popped up fashion. Robes with exaggeratedly long sleeves were a solider take on a kimono cut, making you long to disappear in the heavy draping of its contours. Throughout this collection, the black and white tuxedo style took a twist, with fabrics arching like orchids in bloom. It’s silhouettes kept the mystery of androgyny, letting us dream of the characters who would wear them. Evening bustier dresses held in and covered up crisp white button down shirts. A black, white and grey palette was disrupted by flashes of sanguine red and a deeper burgundy. The Aganovich duo additionally collaborated with Maison Lesage, an acclaimed embroidery atelier, which created heart shaped brooches, simultaneous striking a romantic yet visceral note.
Brooke Taylor and Nana Aganovich created beautiful head-to-toe looks that were rich in colours, textures and brocades. However, if you were to deconstruct them, would they have the same effect? Would isolating the jacket of a strong matching suit take away from its spot-on aesthetic? That is the danger and the sacrifice French designers took when sticking to their vision. Overlooking the dictation of global trends, they make clothes abiding to their vision of what clothes should be. The risk of difficult commerciality is present, but we laud the modern icons Aganovich has made.
Aganovich Spring/Summer 2015 Looks:
Aganovich Spring/Summer 2015 Details:
Runway Photography: Courtesy of Michele Montagne
Details Photography: Beccy Nuthall