Yohji Yamamoto took a more conceptual role this season taking inspiration from Japanese movie, Tokyo Story by Ozu Yasujiro, where questions were posed on identity and the process of self-discovery. Over the years, Yamamoto has been known for taking risks and sticking with intuition, the brand itself has become an identity in its own right, owing to his classic silhouettes and style of cutting and selective premium fabric choices.
One of the great features of the show (typical with Yohji's humorous side) was a suit jacket that had a photo print on the back of a cat with the word 'Perdu' ('lost' in French). Then, when you thought the joke was left there, another lost cat came strolling down but this time with the word 'lost' written in English, followed by a lost dog, and then finally the model was wearing a jacket with a sign exhibiting a 'lost Yohji'.
As the theme was 'Culture Mix', the designer's aim was to depict a mishmash of intimate styles in a more casual yet avant-garde manner. The models also had a sort of stigma attached to them in terms of the persona they were trying to achieve, let it be an outlaw or an artist.
Usually Yamamoto would select fabrics with a pre-worn or dated feel, but with this collection the clothing felt more replenished, perhaps the way the Japanese linen didn't have repeated washes. Jackets were fastened at obtuse angles, with scarves tied around the head or models donning double hats. Patchwork was another big feature midway through the collection, with lines and patches of white blots on both jacket and pants. Furthermore, denim made a comeback for Yohji this season. Featured were denim jackets hanging models like backpacks, and kimono-like denim shirts with trompe l'oeil holes on the side paired down with baggy denim pants.
Deconstructed loose fitting suits and oversized pants, Yamamoto gave us a conceptual yet playful collection that references the Daisho period of early twentieth century Japan. Even though the collection was about being lost, Yamamoto proves to us again that the execution of his work is far from a lost of direction. Regardless of what anyone tells him, he sticks with his guns and continues to define the Yohji Yamamoto man.
Yohji Yamamoto Menswear Spring/Summer 2015 Looks:
Yohji Yamamoto Menswear Spring/Summer 2015 Illustration:
Runway Photography: Courtesy of Yohji Yamamoto
Fashion Illustration: Scott W Mason