Spring/Summer 2015 marked the start of a change in direction for Korean menswear label Wooyoungmi. The designer behind the brand has named her 28-year-old daughter, Katie Chung, as Joint Creative Director, and the results were effortless.
Merging Woo Youngmi's love of architectural structure with her daughter's more relaxed and softer aesthetic, the collection encapsulated a care-free attitude for the Wooyoungmi man this season. As a working man who doesn't let the constraints of a nine-to-five life drag him down, he dreams of being an artist one day, but for now his lifestyle is his art.
The designers married relaxed sportswear and tailoring, with deconstructed jackets next to loose, drawstring chinos. Tank tops, oversized sweatshirts, and racer-back shirts made regular appearances, all with either unbuttoned cuffs or pushed back sleeves. "He's not the kind of guy that will button up his shirt with a jacket, he will wear a t-shirt, under a suit, and that's expressed through the silhouette," explains Chung.
Prints were crucial to the collection, with a large amount of inspiration coming from 1930's poster art and the works of Carlos Cruz-Diez and Roy Lichtenstein, with prints that were veiled in net and mesh on t-shirts, deconstructed shirts and bombers. The designers also used a bonding technique to create these masculine prints, which gave the appearance of a collaged texture.
As a mother-daughter duo designing for the modern man, Woo Youngmi and Katie Chung think their gender works in their favour. "I know a lot of people who think it's better to be a woman designing for a man, because it's a different perspective," Katie explains.
Fabrics were to chosen in order to accentuate the movement of the body, giving the Wooyoungmi man freedom and movement to portray his care-free attitude. Silk jacquard in sherbet yellow contrasts an otherwise complimentary palette of white, black, blue and grey - a muted tonal summary of Miami, where the Wooyoungmi man would go on holiday this season. Chung explains that this is season is about "a free, careless guy laying in the shade at the beach. He's not the happy, sunny and sporty guy - he's laying in the shade, enjoying his beer and chillaxing."
Wooyoungmi Menswear Spring/Summer 2015 Looks:
Wooyoungmi Menswear Spring/Summer 2015 Backstage:
Runway Photography: Courtesy of Starworks Group
Backstage Photography: James Blite