With the Rio world cup in full swing and men everywhere tuning into the match of the day to shout angrily at the television it’s no surprise that the fashion world has taken note. London Collections: Men is for men, after all. One designer in the spirit of all things Rio is Oliver Spencer, utilising Brazilian beats courtesy of percussion group Rhythms of the City.
Unfortunately, that’s about as far as the Rio influence stretches in the designer’s Spring/Summer 2015 collection, save for some carnival style dancers. Instead, Spencer chose to revolve his collection around Mexico; picking up on elements of architect Luis Barragán.
But obvious it was not; focusing on a colour palette of primary subtractive colours such as a spectrum of blues, yellow ochre and deep reds, all tones attributed to Barragán's work whilst creating clothes that are decidedly European. A new shirt shape for Spencer was introduced, a loose tunic style to resemble an artists smock, manifesting in the aforementioned rich hues. The silhouette was relaxed with both wide leg and cropped chino style trousers to compliment the longer length shirts and tailored jackets, a new addition from Spencer, striking the right balance between sharp and airy.
The prints of the collection are intriguing but not try hard; a delicate blue pattern adorns a two-piece suit beside a matching shirt, grey florals not too fussy and both a graphic zig-zag and a boardwalk inspired stripe executed elegantly through tonal colours. The textiles employed are also noteworthy with engineered sweatshirts and textural linen knitwear adding a juxtaposition of classic fall-backs and modern innovations. The chambray blazer and tunic scream summer and a crumpled cropped navy jacket with mismatched buttons oozes effortlessness. The standout pieces were the Buffalo Jacket in both beige and navy suede and the extremely wearable weekend bags carried in hand by the street cast models.
You can hardly say the collection is carnival inspired in any sense but it certainly is a collection ripe with holiday spirit, a piece of summer for the sartorially minded city man.
Oliver Spencer Menswear Spring/Summer 2015 Looks:
Oliver Spencer Menswear Spring/Summer 2015 Details:
Oliver Spencer Menswear Spring/Summer 2015 Backstage:
Runway Photography: Courtesy of Surgery PR
Details Photography: Josh Brandao
Backstage Photography: Thang LV