Louis Vuitton's Spring/Summer 2015 menswear collection transported us to a warm summer’s day in contemporary India. Vuitton's menswear style director, Kim Jones, took inspiration from his Indian travels, which were encouraged by former Central Saint Martins MA Fashion professor, Louise Wilson OBE. The set design was heavily based on the Jantar Mantar astronomical observation gardens that Jones discovered while in India’s pink city, Jaipur. Jones dedicated this collection to his former professor, which united sharp tailoring, retro silhouettes and subtle detailing.
The brand has come full circle, using the maharajas that were frequent customers of Vuitton in the twenties as inspiration. Jones was particularly captivated by their opulent palaces and the seed for the collection were the palace guards. This is very evident in the strong military aesthetic that comes through the form of the aviation jumpsuits and army shirts. Organza shirts, lavish suede shorts and trench coats, and pristine cotton suits with embossed buttons were staple looks within this collection.
Silhouettes referenced the seventies, with high-waisted trousers and shorts alongside longer, double-breasted jackets. Hot pinks, cobalt blues and pops of orange mixed seamlessly with a more neutral palette, bringing Bollywood to the sophisticated, well-travelled Vuitton gentleman. As a travelling man himself, Jones translated practicality and functionality into this collection. The cases carried by the models held portable writing desks for the wandering novelist, and blank sheet-music paper and notebooks for the exploring musician.
While the incredible attention to detail may have been difficult to spot for the short time that the looks graced the catwalk (an issue almost every designer is familiar with), the craftsmanship was undeniable. Jones obsessed over the details, from the buttons to the fabrics, to the unbelievable shisha mirror-work that embroidered ink-blue military bombers and a flight suit, each mirror engraved with the unmistakable 'LV' logo. Jones paid true respect to the ethos of Louis Vuitton, which is founded on an appreciation of the rare and luxurious, by individuals of taste and experience - the Vuitton gentleman.
Louis Vuitton Menswear Spring/Summer 2015 Looks:
Runway Photography: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton