Judging by his previous seasons it could be difficult not to pigeonhole Lee Roach. He has become the master of minimalism, a pioneer of quality over creativity. Fashion is cruel and hungry for new ideas and it could be difficult for Roach to stay a afloat relying on his straightforward approach. Following Autumn/Winter 2014, the fashion industry waited with baited breath to see whether Roach would progress and where his aesthetic will go for 2015.
Luckily, Roach seems well aware of the ‘minimalist’ label almost embossed onto this designs and for Spring/Summer 2015 the designer dipped his toes into something a little more experimental whilst maintaining the pared-back aesthetic that the brand is known for.
Straying from Autumn/Winter’s nearly all black offering, Roach experimented with a more vibrant palette to include tangerine and red amongst navy and khaki. A coated linen textile was employed for Roach's trademark, the embellishment-free suit, as well as slouchier over shirts and waistcoats, tied at the back with parachute-like fastenings.
The silhouette was streamlined and the pieces impeccably cut thanks to Roach's Saville Row background. The trousers were narrow and at times branded with the designers name and the season- an unexpected detail from the designer. The raincoat-like textile was an unlikely choice for the trousers, which on some models, such as a white pair, grazed the ankle. Of course one of Roach's signatures, the tunic, was still present, this season updated as a sleeveless hoodie.
Emblazoned with motifs such as 'protect', some parts of the collection seemed to draw influence from life jackets, with adjustable straps as closure and an emphasis on waistcoats. Hoods became detached from coats to form weather-safe headgear and last season’s hidden fastenings on suit jackets was updated with simple poppers. Like last season, Roach put forward a more dramatic piece for his more fashion conscious consumers, taking Autumn/Winter’s leather tank top and executing it this season in a fine sheer knit for Spring.
The slight shift away from minimalism is a welcome surprise from Roach, pushing the boundaries of what we may expect from the designer in a very elegant manner, still placing importance on what the brand is all about: simplicity and beautifully tailored menswear.
Lee Roach Menswear Spring/Summer 2015 Looks:
Runway Photography: Courtesy of D/ARK PR