‘Sportswear’ is a trend that fashion designers love to merge with a theme. Astrid Andersen did sportswear with Asian culture, Christopher Shannon did sportswear with an ‘Emo’ twist and today, KTZ did sportswear with Greek mythology.
Although the theme was a little misinformed, stating it was in parts inspired by ‘Perseus fighting the minotaur’ (it’s Theseus, Pejoski) the merging of the theme and the streetwear KTZ is associated with worked successfully. Titled ‘The Urban Warrior’, KTZ offered pteruges-style skirts worn with baggy oversized t-shirts emblazoned with Pagan and ancient iconography and clever leather caps mimicking Grecian helmets. Of course, the conventions of the KTZ package were still present with heavy mesh backpacks, basketball shirts and clever fabric manipulation - this season manifesting itself as embossed latex.
References were obvious but carefully executed, such as a gold ‘six-pack’ breast plate, a cap inspired by Icarus’s wings and a pouch, clasped in the hand, that resembled a Grecian shield. Sizeable sequins and shimmering crocodile skin served an armour-like purpose, stiffening shoulders inspired by the battle attire of Greek warriors. Grecian sculptures were transformed into heavy necklaces and heavy gold chains became twenty-first century neckpieces. The palette was cohesive with the theme, choosing to mix black, white and terracotta orange to recall Greek vases.
Out of the context of the full KTZ spectacle, some of the individual garments were a little uninspired. Without the bold prints of Autumn/Winter this season comes up a little short in offering originality, choosing instead to focus on luxurious textiles and interchangeable pieces. But maybe this is understandable; as one of the main players in the sportswear corner of London Collections: Men, it must be hard for KTZ to do something out of the box, especially now that so many other designers are flirting with athleticism.
However, what designer Marjan Pejoski has done incredibly successfully is to distinguish the Menswear sector of the KTZ brand from the womenswear, opting not to go for pieces as unisex as in seasons past and instead for obvious masculinity through items such as the male breastplate. And, at the end of the day, he has created a collection specifically targeted at his consumer: an urban warrior armed with technology that is sure to go down a storm.
KTZ Menswear Spring/Summer 2015 Looks:
Runway Photography: Christopher Dadey (Courtesy of Peoples Revolution)