Cowboys are currently á la mode. One designer keen to leech off this trend is Katie Eary. Inspired by Dallas Buyers Club and breaking bad, the British born designer contemplated what a modern day cowboy would look like whilst incorporating her bold cool-kid sensibility for Spring/Summer 2015.
So who is Katie’s cowboy? He’s a little bit more acid trip and a little less Wild Wild West than you’d probably imagine. Utilising ‘Dallas/New Mexican/Texan’ prints with a sort of seventies vibe, Eary presented an array of flared cuff silk shirts layered over skin tight roll necks and quirky denim jackets with peace symbols and cactus motifs. A very ‘wild’ gold buffalo belt buckle and a printed neckerchief added to the cowboy allusion but fringed suede biker waistcoats seemed a little too modern for the Dallas inspiration.
Eary’s signature punchy colourways brought the theme up to date, this season engaging with nuances of fuchsia, orange and plum, a sunset palette if there ever was one. As with many of the showcases on the London Collections: Men schedule, Katie chose to incorporate womenswear too, presenting skin tight catsuits with slashed hems to reveal the model’s shins. These pieces were a little too Tropicana sat beside the rest of the collection, as was the oriental fish print top of the opening look.
The hair and makeup was a little distracting at times; glittery faces seen on the female models perhaps a bit try hard. However, the male models were coiffed accurately to the theme: long, unruly hair conjures men fresh from horseback, and the reflective aviators appropriate for cowboy attire. The highlight of the collection was the skinny trompe l’oeil denim jeans, fusing both the seventies peace sign and the Wild West cactus with ease and brought to the twenty-first century through spray paint-like technique.
Despite setting out to ‘take new from old, and apply old to the new’, the whole collection was a tad misinformed. Fans of Eary are enthusiastic about her somewhat bonkers interpretations of an inspiration, which was lost betwixt the multiple unconnected themes than ran throughout this particular offering.
Katie Eary Menswear Spring/Summer 2015 Backstage:
Backstage Photography: Thang LV