Being one of the last shows of the day, Julius impressed us with their stroboscopic light display that were flashing throughout the entire show while the models tunnelled through the catwalk geared up in strong gothic armour. With a presentation of looks that were dedicated to artist Hans Rudolf Giger who unfortunately passed away earlier this year on 12th May, the source of homage was very clear through Julius' reference of his surrealist paintings and sculpture work throughout the collection.
The collection was entitled 'Prism', which rooted its inspiration from the work of multiple artists such as Naum Gabo and Joseph Koudelka, and as the models started making their way onto the catwalk, we are thrown into Tatsuro Horikawa's vortex of sharp all black looks in wax coating, rubber, film and inorganic matter. As the designer explains, these were all catalysed by neuron and fetishism as the reactor in matrimony with reality and imagination. Shortly after, a hint of white starts creeping down the catwalk to only appear as almost crisp and reflective in texture, although almost transforming back into black as the strobes fasten the pace.
Sculpted jackets full of darkness and volume are paired with fitted drop crotch pants featured in a very precise palette of strictly black and white. Highlights of the collection were the asymmetrical constructed blazers, slouchy vests with a v-neck collar and oversized sleeved tops.
Harajuku-like hair in lustrous white against dark liner around the eyes set the gothic mood so perfectly, blending well with the Julius aesthetic. Again highlighting this concept of engineered construction, leading onto the fact that these models were almost robotic in nature rather than human, 'an expression of human emotion, by an engineering approach' as described by the show notes.
The footwear were also a main feature this season, Horikawa wanted to take a less typical approach this and referenced the idea of the prism, being a dimensional inspiration against functionality. The boots contained soles made out of countless prism formations that were so solid yet gentle in construction. With reference to fetishism again, there were ankle boots paired against high boots that beautifully complimented the entire atmosphere of the catwalk.
It was another impressive season for the avant-garde designer who always stays true to his strong and gothic Japanese aesthetic.
Julius Menswear Spring/Summer 2015 Looks:
Runway Photography: Courtesy of Totem Fashion