It was a hot tropical morning at the Issey Miyake show at the Miyake European headquarters in Place Des Vosges. Yusuke Takahashi named his latest menswear collection for Issey Miyake, 'Tropical Dandies' and walked us on a journey through wild jungles and sandy beaches before taking us into the deep sea.
Miyake boys sped down a whitewashed path sporting tweed-like jackets, jumpers, shorts and gilets made out of tropical fibres - a mix of abaca (material woven from wild bananas) and pineapple yarns which were fused with linen and nylon to create a refined product. This array of light and breezy resort wear was furthered decorated with bold tropical fruit prints on the sleeves and back of garments realised by Kyoto craftsmen - an artisanal alternative to digital printing.
Moving from the jungle to the sun, sea and sand, silhouettes became more sporty and dynamic. We saw half-naked boys donning knee-length shorts in the signature Miyake pleating and a mix of four different blue dyes which adorned suits, shirts, scarves and even ponchos - a beautiful gradient that recalls the coastline of the Palau islands.
Taking a step further, Takahashi teamed up with Bloom association, a non-governmental organisation dedicated to marine conservation and digitally printed intriguing creatures that inhabit the depths of the deep sea on shirts and t-shirts with saturated colour enhancements. Afterall, what would our oceans be like in the absence these creatures? A message in line with Kenzo's S/S14 'no fish, no nothing', but done in a more undercurrent and graceful manner.
Takahashi successfully demonstrated a youthful and animated outlook for Issey Miyake this season with an artful narrative of his own, marching the Miyake menswear line into a new era.
Issey Miyake Menswear Spring/Summer 2015 Looks:
Issey Miyake Menswear Spring/Summer 2015 Illustration:
Runway Photography: Courtesy of Issey Miyake
Fashion Illustration: Scott W Mason