Last season for Autumn/Winter 2014, Patrick Grant, the man who launched E. Tautz as a ready-to-wear label in 2009, walked us through the exuberant lifestyle and eventual downfall of a spendthrift son in 'A Rake's Progress'. The story this season, was a little less heavy - taking the idea of the transformation of the Brit once they reach the seaside inspired by the book A Day Off by Tony Ray-Jones which depicts the bizarre, the hilarious and the sometimes bittersweet habits of the Brits at their leisure.
"Edward on his day off was Eddy," says Grant backstage at The Old Sorting Office, pointing to the title of tabloid newspaper (which formed part of the show notes) I had in hand, "it's a celebration of the Brits and their leisure. When a Brit gets to the seaside they transform themselves by rolling up their trousers legs and paddle into the sea - they become a different person."
Capturing this spirit, Grant developed a print called 'busy bank holiday, Margate' filled with bustling crowds on Margate's beach, which adorned shirts, t-shirts, and broad shorts. Wide and narrow linen stripes were also a recurring motif on parkas, jackets and trousers that reminisce deck chairs and British summer, accompanied by Christian Louboutin high-tops which were dissected into sandals.
Grant adhered to a key palette of navy and bronze which showcased beautifully through showerproof silk and nylon parkas and bomber jackets alongside complimentary shades of khaki and white. There were also certain references to the Mods and Rockers of the sixties who would meet up for battles in the south coast seaside towns which came through the use of snaps, zips and mohair suiting.
The look this season was mainly a high-waisted one, with Grant's boys sporting loose trousers and jeans under slouchy or slim-fitted outerwear. The wide use of Selvedge denim this season also gave the collection a working-class factor, poised for relevance in today's society - a theme which resonates the renaissance of Savile Row tailoring which has been Grant's mission since day one.
Grant has outdone himself again this season, continuing to redefine Savile Row tailoring, reinvent tradition and inspire us by telling us yet another beautiful story. It is safe to say that Grant successfully captured the nostalgic romance of a slightly down-at-heel seaside town and all things quintessentially British for E. Tautz this season.
E. Tautz Menswear Spring/Summer 2015 Looks:
E. Tautz Menswear Spring/Summer 2015 Backstage:
E. Tautz Menswear Spring/Summer 2015 Illustration:
Runway Photography: Courtesy of Starworks Group
Backstage Photography: Tom Selmon and Thang LV
Fashion Illustration: Scott W. Mason