Boris Bidjan Saberi took a very artisanal approach this season by moulding leather into various jackets - some more glossy and stiff in shape, others more rigid and tailored in form. The young designer kept true to his street and Middle Eastern aesthetic, and utilised different types of tough leather (such as horse and donkey leather), combined with light and fluid materials such as cashmere and cotton.
An army of tough Saberi boys marched down the runway at the Garage Lübeck to the ambience of Ben Frost's roaring experimental music, sporting garments which held strong references to military uniform. Featured were waistcoats reimagined in reversed horse leather softly blended with utilitarian suit jackets in green and hand-knitted gilets in black. Additionally, the boys were clad in elongated cotton t-shirts which were layered underneath sporty mesh tops in basic white and earthy tones to reference organic structures. Furthermore, parkas were kept open at shoulder width to reveal white linen tops underneath, shown with asymmetric cotton pants in beige and black.
How can one forget about hair or lack of it this season - you may ask? This was obviously Saberi's choice - his models donned painted latex headpieces in off-white, black and green. The whole point was very simple as stated by the designer, taking away features like the hair made the models stand out and look more intimidating - to depict a soldier on the battlefield.
The showstopper this season was an oily leather jacket featured towards the end of the show which sat on the back of a beige suit jacket (as a backpack), which fluttered as the wearer sped down the runway. Additionally, Saberi collaborated with footwear designer, Muñoz Vrandecic, to create a series of glossy leather boots and high-tops - a collaboration that initially started with the launch of Saberi's 'UCANFUCKW' label in 2003.
The young German-Persian designer continues to experiment with his alchemist like creations and continues to surprise us every season. We can safely say that his refined leather creations are sure to please buyers and Saberi die-hard fans.
Boris Bidjan Saberi Menswear Spring/Summer 2015 Looks:
Runway Photography: Courtesy of 2e BUREAU