Mary Katrantzou Spring/Summer 2014

'I think people are bored of having a singular look and because we only have one resort collection, I think it's important to have many drops and to give a different angle throughout a collection as long as there is a running theme that makes it all come together.' - Mary Katrantzou

If a label's success is measured out in sales then a count of the number of Mary Katrantzou pieces being worn at her Spring/Summer 2014 show would prove that she is somewhat a commercial success.

Looking down for inspiration in fashion's ultimate fetish: footwear, Mary Katrant-Shoe (hash tag for this collection) presents a clever collection that would satisfy both retailers and savvy clients who are always demanding something new.  By blowing up the details of gentleman's brogues, trainers and evening footwear to create three collections in one, retailers can drop three bombs throughout their S/S14 retail period and at the same time, order the drops in a way that would differentiate themselves from other retailers.

For daywear, Katrantzou rips apart polished gentlemen's brogues and spiralled punched leather details, lacing and serrations around the body.  Inspired by the kilts of Ghillie brogues, pleats became a main motif - seen in a pleated cocoon dress suspended from a strap across the chest, the strap mimicking the buckled strap of Monk brogues.

Evolving to active sportswear, trainers are torn and reconfigured into streamlined silhouettes. The palette evolves from autumnal hues (brogue shades of brown, black and ivory) to neon-bright yellow, cerise, cobalt and green. Neoprene bikers are cropped on the waist or elongated into coats, trimmed in rubberised leather and finished with scuba zips and pipe seams.  The details of trainers became ornamental, engineered to suggest silhouettes and define the female form.

In a second collaboration with French embroidery house Lesage, Katrantzou draws on embroidered evening shoes of the 1960s and amplifies the embroideries (by 200 percent) on her sculptural evening dresses and coats all high across the upper thigh. These were re-embroidered in sequins, mirrors and Swarovski crystals that sparkle over a palette of rococo shades of apricot, fuchsia, peridot and periwinkle.  

This collection was a far cry from the monochromatic palette last season. Nevertheless, Mary's back with enticingly colourful prints to quench her rapidly growing Kantrantzou-clad clan.

Photos: Courtesy of Karla Otto