J.W. Anderson’s conceptual experimentation of seasons past has culminated in a wonderful wisp of a collection for Spring/Summer 2014. Anderson plays with the idea of exposure and transparency throughout the show. Heavy elements – pleather, thick, rigid knits, box pleats – complement the lighter aspects of the looks without weighing them down; in fact, the juxtaposition actually serves to highlight the delightfully delicate details. From tendril-thin camisole straps to tissue-thin handkerchief tops of black and white tulle, every look bears evidence of Anderson’s feather-light touch.
Described by Anderson as ‘modern peasantry’, the collection was refreshing in its simplicity and almost clinical composition, but still managed to exude an almost absent-minded sexiness. Bare backs and sharp edges are paired with little bin-bag purses and slippers: Anderson references the idea of ‘domesticity…a girl taking out the rubbish’ as inspiration, and the end result has a clean and pared-back familiarity to it, and it is this easiness and the wearability of the pieces that strengthens this collection. Despite the highly conceptual nature of the looks, Anderson still slips in commercially viable pieces – leather skirts in three different neutrals, a bright red jumper – which evoke a sense of comfort and homeliness: almost a deconstruction of a beautiful girl taking out the rubbish.
This season, J.W. Anderson presents a collection that radiates an unexpected sexiness in between its clean, sharp lines, but also boasts a surprising lightness and delicacy: defined without being dull, and conceptual but not confusing.
Photos: Melonie Jang (Courtesy of Air PR)