The 'handsome women' who appeared on Haider Ackermann's catwalk on Saturday were strong and powerful beings. Yet behind all that tough masculine projection lays a certain fragility which makes his collections romantic at the same time. This has become what we know as the Haider Ackermann woman, slowly striding down the catwalk to the beat of the hypnotic soundtrack.
This season Ackermann turned to rich, dark tones which came as a surprise for Spring/Summer. Perhaps this was an attempt to showcase trans-seasonal garments that could be cherished and become timeless pieces as the staples of one's wardrobe. A dialogue between man and woman was very much embodied throughout the collection. Lean masculine jackets and coats with narrow lapels in shades of black, white, brown and peacock blue, were layered over long fluid tulle and silk dresses of gossamer pleating. The dresses were extremely sensual on the girls. The clothes were falling and fainting from their bodies and the skin is revealed but in all the right places (a quality we have come to expect from the king of the side boob).
The uplifting moments of the show involved Ackermann's injection of metallic fabrics in the collection – lit up by the ray of soft light surrounding the models. The master colourist in fashion infused copper to his blouses and trousers and shots of gold to his jackets and pleated skirts. The shimmering boxy sapphire jacket paired with amethyst trousers and the multicolour crystals embroidered jacket were enticingly beautiful on the runway as the shine drew a smile on our faces.
The shine was all startling and fresh for Haider, but those few moments of untainted minimalism: a black clean jumpsuit and long-sleeve off-the-shoulder dress served as a classic break from the otherworldly world of Haider Ackermann; a world of power, love and absolutely beauty.