Lucas Nascimento pulls off androgy-glam for Autumn/Winter 2015 in a shabby chic rendition of the luxury knitwear combinations he is known for. Nascimento warned us last year that he was ready to start introducing a wilder and more optimistic side of Brazil to his creations, and this season does deliver.
We see flowing capes draped against comfortable veneers and muted flower themes, textures, and colours that sing of their odyssey from Brazil. The persistence of dark tones across a wide choice of fabrications accesses a crux between masculine and feminine archetypes: navy, maroon, and ivy green war tones splatter-paint floral jacquard hibiscuses onto sweaters paired with tinsel skirts and trousers, and the occasional slip dress, layered underneath tough printed leather and wool coats to combat the winter. Buttery silk backed-leathers rub against fuzzy boucle: textural refinement that is both appealing and complicated to design. Your light and airy model is actually dragging a heavy and rather complicated cocoon swathing her into comfort. Protective sweaters include padded inlayed knits while leather coats are lined with knitted renditions of wool and lurex jumpers are inlayed with the precious touch of soft cashmere against a wearer’s vulnerable skin.
Indeed, this is the story of an androgy-glam-orous woman searching to powerfully assert herself while remaining true to comfortable origins. Garments that resemble wool and simulate quilting though they are made of other materials, and rely heavily on lurex and silk yarn mixtures. The show begins in a solid black onesie lined in aubergine, and ends in a flashier version of the same archetype: an electric blue one-over with a black v line and a chaotic fabric concoction of glimmering blended lurex and silk yarn. Be sure not to miss the cocoa leather trench paired upon an orange flowered cape that practically orgasms out of a burnt orange shirt singed in creme hibiscuses.
A sentimental note to Brazil this season differentiated the London-based label amongst peers on the London Fashion Week schedule. Nascimento interpreted his heritage and offered his multi-faceted girls an air of Brazil’s tropicalism, embedded in a comfortable and protective collection for the modern city woman.
Review: Mica Rose
Autumn/Winter 2015 Looks:
Autumn/Winter 2015 Backstage:
Runway Photography: Courtesy of In Addition
Backstage Photography: James Blite