This season Yang Li exhibited a lyrical narrative that was reflected in the lyrics of Bruce Springsteen's 'Dream Baby Dream' that hypnotised us all in the show space at the Beaux Arts in Paris. Li entitled his show 'the dreamer' and one critical thing Li taught us this season was to 'come on and dream' in his creations.
Effortless was the key word once again, a recurring motif since the development of the label in 2010. Each look that sped the runway bore respect to the past but with an urban coolness that placed the wearer on today's streets and the future. "We started with all the staples of luxury but we twisted them - so using double faced leather print and using fur as a traditional means of luxury but offered in separates," explained Li backstage.
The collection opened with a steel blue look with an abundant pleated peplum with the model's hands in the pockets of her lavish dress for that casual factor. This soon evolved to an employ of volume - oversized coats were belted, paired with voluminous ankle length skirts with a kick on the side or restricted cigarette pants. Li also combined textures and pieces that look like they belong in separate worlds on paper - a great example was the combination of a turtleneck and fur bra top, paired with pleated wool skirt.
The show ended with his ultimate message 'dreamer' engraved on a top paired with a floor length skirt, followed by an ankle length dress nipped-in the waist evoking the 'New Look' silhouette, albeit when the model turned around we came to realise that the front half of the skirt was pleated from the bodice concealing the actual knee-length skirt behind. There's always a twist with Li that grounds his couture-esque craftsmanship with the relevance of today's society and what people want to wear. "I think luxury need not to be just perfect, but to have a heart and soul - that human touch".
Photography: Courtesy of Yang Li