The Beaux Arts welcomed Tsumori Chisato’s latest collection. The designer’s work truly displayed her flair for pushing the boundaries and challenging our preconceptions of ‘seasonal clothing’. Unlike her last Autumn/Winter collection that was rife with darker, and more conventional winter tones, Chisato leaves this all behind in full favour of a ‘winter jungle’. Whilst the designs were certainly functional, with lengthy skirts, well formed jumpers and coats that filled the runway, there was something whimsical and somewhat sumptuous about her dreamlike world, with a cornucopia of vibrant knitwear, multicoloured silk skirts, and embellished cardigans.
The wild and daring twist of this Autumn/Winter collection mixed well with the 1940s silhouettes of the blazers, coats and skirts to add an element of structure. Such structure created the perfect balance and prevented the collection from becoming too saturated and gaudy. In the designer notes, Chisato commented on the women who wear her designs are able to incorporate this vibrancy into their everyday lives and ‘walk into the jungle wearing a colour block coat’. Such fearlessness was inescapable throughout the show.
Chisato didn’t spare any wild ideas for this collection, with ‘peeled banana skirts’, raffia sleeves on the jumpers and tops, and generous doses of colour: from tropical greens to burgundy red, and also toucan orange and yellow. With these fauvistic allusions, Chisato has truly worked to emulate the textures of the jungle. There was indeed a freedom to the colour and craft of the collection, but there was also an innately feminine touch to its tones of flora and fauna, to create a truly unexpected collection for this cold season.
Tsumori Chisato Autumn/Winter 2014 Looks:
Tsumori Chisato Autumn/Winter 2014 Details:
Tsumori Chisato Autumn/Winter 2014 Backstage:
Runway Photography: Courtesy of A-Net Europe
Runway Details Photography: Beccy Nuthall
Backstage Video Footage: Tom Selmon
Backstage Video Edit: Alex Phelps
Backstage Photography: Nat Browne