This season Rick Owens re-invents and redefines, and the adult embellishment of his trademark slumped layers was only the start of this fashion regeneration of sorts. The classic greys and blacks were textured with animal skin armours, and collages soft knits and harder leather. This collection seems to be an answer to the question posed by his Autumn/Winter 2014 Men’s collection. Is Owens’ hardcore look an accessible fashion statement?
The answer of this collection is a resounding yes. Owens mixed up this collection with dramatic satin and wool cocoons and frayed opera gloves (similar to the fur frays of his last men’s collection) alongside signature black jersey tunics and lengthy leather clad hoodies. There was indeed a re-appearance of the boxy silhouettes that usually graces Owens’ catwalk, but this season’s work perhaps showed how this designer is moving away from single mindedness. This collection displayed a utilitarian chicness, but also a female athleticism (emphasized by knee length leather boots-come-plimsolls). This female strength was heightened with a juxtaposition of warrior inspired headpieces and feminine tapestry detail on draped jackets.
Owens titled this collection ‘Moody’, and there was indeed an industrial quality with his noted darker colour palette, but there was also warmth to the collection, aided by the deep crimsons and sumptuous brown leather and crocodile. But, not one for sticking to the conventions of fashion shows (his last women’s collection for spring featured a group of step dancers modeling his clothes), this collection didn’t lack in terms of fierceness. The models were a ‘fashion family’ to Owens, made up of close friends and employees. With Kirsten Owen (old friend and the model of his very first collection in New York) walking alongside the manager of Owens’ Paris boutique, Barbara, as well as his assistant Asha. Thus, the softer tones of Owens’ modeling troupe mixed delightfully with the strength of his clothing to show that these women (with varying sizes, hairstyles and ages) keep fashion turning, and it was their ferociousness that perhaps transformed this moodiness into a powerful evocation of the real women.
Photography: Courtesy of Rick Owens