When acclaimed American director David Lynch left Twin Peaks with a “see you again in 25 years!” little did we realise he may have meant he’d see us on the runway. Taking place at Les Docks at the Cité de la Mode et du Design in Paris, Lynch collaborated with Kenzo duo Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, creating the set design and music for what was a dark and eerie Autumn/Winter 2014 collection.
The designers said that they wanted to create a collection 'through the eyes of David Lynch' and this was evident as the models walked the runway, past a film screen projecting smoke and a mirrored wall in which their reflections shifted and warped – an idea obviously drawn from the off-kilter world that Lynch tends to create. Besides the staging, Lynch’s choice of music was a 16-minute track that was typically minimalist and industrial, with synthetic pops and crackles throughout.
And what of the clothes? The silhouette for AW14 was voluminous and amplified, with lots of easy-wearing separates such as bomber jackets, wide sleeve coats with wrap fastenings, foil print slim-fit trousers and more cocoon shapes, extended for another season. The colour palette was vibrant with oranges, limes and reds, with some colours named after David Lynch characters: 'Wild Lula Lime', 'Laura Lilac', and 'Midnight Dorothy'.
Makeup was in the hands of Aaron de Mey, who saw to it to include some 'Blue Velvet' references. But instead of basing it on Isabella Rossellini’s iconic look in the film, De Mey focused on the key colour that was referenced throughout (“an Yves Klein blue,” he told us), giving the eyes a sharp high flick, using MAC’s Chromaline eyeliner in Marine Ultra, on an otherwise fresh dewy face. Hair stylist Anthony Turner took inspiration from Sherilyn Fenn and the rest of the cast of Lynch’s early 90s TV series, creating what he named 'Twin Peaks ponytails'. Hair was centre-parted and pulled up tight.
The show marked the conclusion of a David Lynch trilogy that the Kenzo designers have been working on for some time, and what a fantastic finish it was. The accessories – clutch bags etched with 'Forever, No?' – have already caused quite a stir, and we can only expect the wait list for these to be just as long.
All Photography: Courtesy of Kenzo