It is undeniable that J. W. Anderson is a master of sculpture. He challenges the feminine form; manipulating fabrics to create intriguing silhouettes that you didn't think were possible. This season, Anderson played with shape yet again, elongating the silhouettes and emphasising the structure of garments.
Corduroy opened the show, taking the form of a turtleneck tops with full shoulders and structured bodies, and matching earth coloured midi-length skirts. The turtlenecks carried on, growing wider, while the silhouettes slimmed to straight cuts, loosely falling on the side of the girls.
A stand out look from the collection was a woollen industrial-smoke grey turtle neck dress that grazed the ankles, under a blazer of the same length, pulled together with a thick waistband wrap that resembled the Japanese kimono. This look put a detached and formal twist on recognisable traditional wear, making it modern and relevant. Another of the key looks was a graphic printed two-piece, ankle length skirt-suit with an oversized collar and lapel. The print (repeated in khaki, maroon and red) combined cobalt blue, deep navy and dulled red in streaks similar to confined, running paint; evoking a manner of pushing against restraints that we are set by society.
Anderson's collection had a very natural and earthy feel, reflected in both the colour palette and the fabrics. Unconventional fabrics were chosen for the garments that Anderson created; shearling played its part, along with dense wools, felt and velvet. Architectural and playful, Anderson has shown yet another uber-cool collection full of the unexpected.
Photography: Courtesy of Ai PR
Fashion Illustration: Scott W. Mason