The one word floating around Jason Wu’s Autumn/Winter 2014 show is ‘unexpected’. Strong powerful shoulders and corsetry was gone, as Wu showcases a more sophisticated and toned down, tailored collection that highlighted his helm as creative director of Hugo Boss.
Wu kept it effortless and simple for A/W14, with an element of androgyny that opposed the 'extreme femininity' theme last season. Wu’s silhouettes were far softer. He nailed the sleek and sophisticated look, with oversized outerwear to keep you cosy for winter.
Wu applied a modern day New York approach to an Old Hollywood inspired collection, with 1930s influenced, bias-cut dresses and a darker, more sophisticated take on Grecian drapery in satin and silk chiffon. The collection's contrast of the masculine outerwear with soft, delicate fabrics conjures an image of power and delicacy simultaneously.
The catwalk was flooded with a palette of black, grey and petrol, throwing in the occasional lilac and oxblood, mirroring the slick albeit slightly eerie soundtrack. Notable looks included a black satin slipdress worn under an oversized black parka, complete with multiple heavy-duty zip details, and fur and beading accents.
For eveningwear, Wu made a statement with sheer turtleneck ankle length dresses in deep purple and black, making the girls appear incredibly sensual and priceless. Cut-outs at the waist and heavy beading-on-velvet details gave the look the drama that Old Hollywood encapsulated.
Pulling together a cohesive and coherent collection once again, Jason Wu has matured and grown stronger season after season, catering to the desires of the New York woman and beyond.
Photography: Courtesy of Jason Wu