David Koma’s Autumn/Winter 2014 collection has been eagerly anticipated, especially after the announcement that he would be replacing Nicola Formicetti as creative director for Thierry Mugler. And it’s safe to say, he didn’t disappoint.
This season, Koma stuck to his signature styles, but applied a stronger, more masculine edge. His typical A-line skirts that grazed the girls’ thighs were still there, giving the collection fluidity. Tailoring laden with leather ran through the collection, and the silhouettes were fitted and structured; streamlining his girls.
The catwalk saw crinolines and corsets as outerwear, crafted out of leather strips woven vertically and horizontally, built into and worn on top of garments. The first looks stormed in purple pony skin, followed by a tribe of black and grey girls, which slowly incorporated inky blues that developed into cobalt; a palette that keeps up with this fast-paced digital age.
Koma drew on inspiration from the Renaissance period paintings by Lucas Cranach the Elder, paying particular attention to the women depicted. He wanted to interpret corsetry and full skirts, “but in a very modern way - using a lot of leather and a lot of different textures, to give a very graphic, modern edge,” said Koma backstage.
What was new to this collection was Koma's use of glossed pony skin. A mixture of textures is key to Koma’s designs, and this season he chose to mix soft feminine fabrics such as chiffon with rough, tough leather and pony hair to give his girls a strong masculine edge. Koma said charmingly, “I’m completely obsessed with this game of balance within the collection; combining hard and soft, sheer and opaque, block out and cut outs. I love the balance!”
Photography: Courtesy of The Communications Store
Fashion Illustration: Scott W. Mason