Bora Aksu has taken inspiration from his mother for his Autumn/Winter 2014 collection, entitled ‘Dear Birsen’. After finding letters she wrote whilst at boarding school in her early teens, Aksu has carefully constructed a collection that shows her battles with uniformity.
Aksu uses silhouettes and colour to emphasise this point; with pencil skirts and simple shirts in black, blue and white, contrasted with crochet and Peter Pan collars in mustard, pink and red that keep the collection whimsical and wonderful.
Aksu played with leather throughout the collection, using it as a representation of rebellion. A notable look was a panelled leather pencil skirt in mustard, paired with a panelled mustard top. Both garments had mesh and crochet panels in mustard and navy, and the top had an oversized Peter Pan collar.
The introduction of gentle pink PVC is a juxtaposition in itself, combining innocence with rebellion in bomber jackets and delicate A-line skirts. This was a theme that ran through the whole collection, really showing the conflict that Aksu’s mother faced when she was thirteen.
Aksu’s choice in soundtrack was cleverly comprised of ‘Often a Bird’ followed by the piano version of ‘Struggle for Pleasure’, both by Wim Mertens. This soundtrack highlighted the themes of the collection perfectly, with the first track playing on striving for freedom, and the second shows that of the battle with yourself.
The girls appeared child-like and innocent, with school-girl plaits and ribbons in their white-blonde hair and clean, barely-there makeup by the AOFM Pro team. A collection that demonstrates the mental struggle between conformity and individuality, Bora Aksu has shown clothing that evokes dreams, wonder and lust.
Runway Photography: Christopher Dadey (Courtesy of Bora Aksu)
Backstage Photography and Videography: Haley Ma
Fashion Illustration: Scott W. Mason