Alexander Wang returned for his third season as Creative Director at Balenciaga, and he seemed more confident than ever. He stayed true to his love of knitwear: reinterpreting and glamorising the craft in a variety of ways. Wang used laminated cable knits that were coated in latex and looped polyester jersey dresses to show complexity and intricacy within the collection. Even for eveningwear, he showcased knitted woollen shrugs in concrete grey with beaded embellishments along the shoulders.
Adhering to an industrial palette of greys, ink blues and khakis, with pops of fuchsia, cobalt and yellow, the collection made a statement with American sportswear: his girls sported oversized outerwear with accentuated dropped shoulders and voluminous sleeves which was also translated into dresses and tops. Playing with various textures in an experimental fashion, Wang merged wool, leather, latex, fur and polyester in one cohesion alongside the use of asymmetry throughout the collection, materialising in the form of coat lapels and turtleneck hems.
Wang used detailing meticulously throughout the collection, with thick industrial zips running along the oversized shoulders and sleeves and down trouser legs which were cut perpendicular lines - forming large crosses. Deep V necklines were printed on sweaters alongside thick waist belts to dramatize the feminine form.
Wang seems to be comfortably settling into his role at Balenciaga, creating yet another desirable and intriguing collection but perhaps more playful this season.
Photography: Monica Feudi (Courtesy of Balenciaga)