For such an iconic Italian label, it says something when Gucci envisions a London man. On the 13th of January in Milan, to the sound of English musicians King Krule and The Smiths, creative director Frida Gianni conjured a true London baker boy, punctuated only by the artisan craftsmanship and luxurious textiles that the Italian brand is renowned for.
Departing from the sportier, commercially friendly Spring/Summer 2014 collection, Gianni’s Autumn/Winter offerings opened with a slim sixties style trouser in glossy powder blue leather and a dusty pink marine coat in Casentino cloth with futuristic neoprene lining; a 21st century update of a typical Gucci garment. The looks that followed were true to the British theme with leather piped baker boy hats and fine knit turtleneck jumpers worn over drainpipe trousers and under waisted peacoats.
A moody, oil slicked floor with a backdrop of midnight black set a landscape for a palette of ice cream pastels, inspired in part by the paintings of Kris Knight. Like those used in Knight’s paintings, the models were young, gaunt and thin; a picture of a typical mod male or a young member of the Beatles. As the show progressed, the colours became darker and the fabrics heavier; a transition from the 1960s man by day to the man by night. The introduction of a night-sky velvet two-piece signaled a shift into the latter, followed by a mohair tuxedo with leather detailing and bold black zips. John Lennon style tea glasses were the sole accessory, save for slouchy leather totes folded in half and tucked under select model’s arms and the aforementioned hats.
The silhouettes were rounder than Gucci’s previous seasons, but with the effortless sharpness the brand favours. A teddy bear coat was both furry yet tailored and bonded wool knitwear redefines the go-to winter jumper in light layers. Of course, the Gucci manifesto coursed through the decidedly modern rendition of 1960s London with slick leather detailing and moto jackets in both deep black and Robin’s Egg blue. The scuba peacoat is a welcome addition to the brand’s portfolio of textiles, marking Gianni’s transition into designing for an urban and younger clientele. The boys are back in town? Definitely, and by the looks of it they’ll all be heading to Gucci for a winter wardrobe.