Stéphane Rolland Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2012

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Shame on KimYe (Kim Kardashian + Kanye West) who both only made it to the Stéphane Rolland Autumn/Winter 2012 show finale. KimYe missed a show of such excellence. 

Rolland is an extraordinary couturier and one of my favourite couturiers of all time. The language he articulates for his brand is absolutely sublime and couture seems to be pushed forward with his modern eye for detail through his silhouettes and architectural shapes. It would be an absolute sensation to see the coming up red carpets flooded with his designs.

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Venue - Cité de l'Architecture et du Patrimoine

Venue - Cité de l'Architecture et du Patrimoine

The heat of Paris was a little overwhelming for an Autumn/Winter 2012 haute couture show. Nevertheless, my excitement and the beauty of the venue helped me cool down as I walked through the stunning entrance and archways.

As I was soaking up the vibe, it was clear that the audience (mostly made up by clients rather than press) were filled with exuberance as they fanned themselves with their invitations. A truly wonderful sight to see people from all over the globe who appreciates Rolland's creations.

Look 1

Look 1

Look 2

Look 2

Inspired by the furniture designer Maria Pergay and David Downton, the fashion illustrator, Stéphane Rolland contrasted 20s chic with modern embellishments of beautiful craftsmanship.

Fashionably late (show started an hour late), a dark girl sped down the runway in an Havana beige cashmere outfit with sea urchin looking silicone fur on her shoulders which later on appeared as a high neck line in Look 2, a white silk crêpe cape dress.

It was truly magnificent to see a dark girl opening a Parisien haute couture fashion house show, rather than a whitewashing of the catwalk. This notion of integrating culture and race in the name of fashion is remarkable.

Look 7

Look 7

The silicon fur was attached to the lower body in the burgundy jersey dress in Look 7 with the introduction of leather harness to give the look a further edge. The girls looked so strong and proud wearing these designs.

So...why fur or even faux-fur? Exactly! Silicon fur is the way forward to modern couture!

Look 9

Look 9

Look 11

Look 11

The show would have been missing something if it weren't for the metal and tabacco suede shelves growing out of the hip of the form-fitting white jersey and suede tunic (Look 9), a show-stopping clean look.

The use of circular cut fabrics to create volume on his streamlined dresses appearing as rows of fabric on the bodice of a dress to bear resemblance to a bird in flight was cleverly done, giving the girls an alluring presence as they moved.

Look 23

Look 23

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Some of the stronger and my favourite looks was Look 23 and some towards the end of the show, where Rolland attached the rounded fabric to bold shoulders to create cape effects; wings which fluttered with elegance.

Look 35 - The Bride

Look 35 - The Bride

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The moment that Chinese superstar Fan Bing Bing sped the runway as "The Bride" of the collection, I was speechless. She walked with poise and elegance carrying the weight of the white jersey and gazar wedding dress with silicone fur on her petite shoulders. When was the last time that an Asian celebrity was made the muse of a haute couture collection? Asian models rarely make it on the prêt-à-porter runway, not to mention haute couture. This was truly revelational and I have to commemorate Rolland for making the bold choice of opening and closing the show with a dark and Asian girl.

Upon my exit of the venue the crowd went crazy for KimYe as they boarded their limo. It must have been a much awaited press hype for the show and bringing much recognition to Rolland on a large scale, but does a man of his talent need this? This entire collection screams HAUTE COUTURE and INCREDIBLE all the way.

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RUMOUR HAS IT - Stéphane Rolland is launching a prêt-à-porter line soon. I got an insight on this when I visited his haute couture salons some years ago at Avenue George V. We all know that this will take the world by storm, as it certainly will blow me away.